15 January 2011
Excuse me...Can I please have the number for Animal Control in Bohicon?
08 January 2011
Bonne Année!
The weather up north is remarkably different than the south of the country, where we live. It was actually cold! We also learned that we are not used to dry heat/cool anymore. It was so dry I thought my eyeballs were going to crack. Between the dryness and the harmattan winds, I was overwhelmed with the weather. It felt like Arizona in the wintertime with its strong cold winds, dryness all around, and dust! By the end of our time up there, every time I blew my nose, the Kleenex would be filled with dust. For the first time, I missed the humidity of the south. The north does have one good advantage though: fresh watermelon! There are watermelon stands everywhere that sell the watermelon in thoughtfully sliced chunks for 5 cents and it was deliciously fresh. I felt well integrated as I walked down the street eating my slice of watermelon, spitting out the seeds into the dirt, then throwing the rind to the goats.
We spent a couple days checking out Krista’s work structures. The Moringa system was sadly a little disappointing because they had chopped the Moringa trees down for the dry season and the boss wasn’t there while we were there because of the holidays. I did get some good information and strategies about nutritional recuperation however, that I will begin to try to implement at my CPS.
In doing our tourism research for the archeological park, we decided to spend the holidays on safari. We wouldn’t be able to work anyway on the 31st and 1st since they are both holidays here in Benin, so we gathered up a little group of 7 people and went on safari. While staying at the workstation, someone took 25,000cfa out of my bag, which is the equivalent to $50, or a quarter of a volunteer’s living stipend each month. I have already filed a report with the Peace Corps. I doubt they’ll find the money; as I’m sure it’s long gone, but hopefully they’ll be able to catch the person, especially since it had to be a fellow volunteer who took it.
The safari was amazing! We all sat on the roof of the car most of the time. Our first sightings of animals were baboons, birds, antelope, boars, hippos, and crocodiles. We also saw a couple lions, several elephants, monkeys swinging from tree to tree, coyotes, water buffalo, several other kinds of deer-like animals, and lots of other colorful birds. One morning, we were out on the roof, and we saw a teenage boy lion lying in the road. He saw us coming and ran into the tall grass. What he didn’t realize was that there was a family of elephants walking right over there and they saw the lion and charged at the lion to scare it away. The elephants, about 100 yards away, eventually saw us, too, as a threat and began to charge at us. We were all yelling in French for the driver to “go”. One of us took a video of the elephant making it’s elephant noise with its ears up and the car racing off. I’ll try to post it on here, but it will eventually be on Facebook. It was really cool and more than fulfilled our expectations of the safari.
That same day, we went to the watering hole, and we saw lots of hippos, four of them, in the shallow water, yawning and walking around. They never actually got out of the water, but at that same time, there were probably 50 baboons all around the watering hole as well. That was very interesting to watch. The baboons were trying to get water while the crocodiles were trying to sun themselves and several times, we thought a baby baboon was going to get eaten. While some tried to get water, another climbed the baobab tree and was knocking down fruit to the other ones that were waiting on the ground. This was all going on while the hippos were walking around and yawning. It was really amazing! Also that same evening, we went out, and just outside of where the hotel was, we saw a beautiful lioness teaching her cubs how to hunt about 40 feet from our car. We didn’t actually see the cubs (only the guide did) but the lioness saw us. She looked at us every time we made any noise but we didn’t seem to bother her. She would just turn around and look at us, then turn back around and watch her cubs. It was incredible.
On New Years Eve, we decided we wanted to take a break from our grocery store food and treat ourselves to dinner at our hotel, the only hotel/restaurant within 2 hours from the nearest civilization (we were in the bush!!) so we went into the restaurant to reserve a table. The usual dinner is 6,000cfa ($12) and that was a very big splurge for us. They informed us that the New Years Eve dinner would be 15,000cfa!!! We, the only grungy, dirty poor people for hours, decided that that was far too much money. One of us, the dirtiest of us all, decided that they were going to talk to the manager. As he stormed off, another one of us yelled at him to be sure to tell them that we were poor. This was hysterical to me because clearly, they could just look at how dirty he was and see that we couldn’t even afford soap! After five attempts at talking to the manager, he decided that they would give us the same dinner for 10,000cfa ($20) and then, we decided that each pair of us would split the dinner so that it would end up being even cheaper than we first thought. What smart volunteers we were! The dinner was a 5-course meal and was very good and definitely enough for 2 people to share.
Craig and I had stashed a bottle of very cheap champagne in the hotel bar fridge and at 11:15pm, we decided to get it. After some confusion and the bartender trying to give us a $300 bottle of champagne that belonged to the table next to us, we got our champagne. After midnight, all the French people decided that they were going to make a conga line and dance around the room holding the person’s shoulders in front of you. We decided to join in to the silly Frenchies’ dance and when we got back to our table, someone had STOLEN my freshly poured glass of champagne! I looked over at the table next to us, whose champagne we almost ended up with, and saw a Beninese person with the Frenchies drinking champagne out of a glass shaped like ours (and shaped differently from everyone else’s at his table). One of the people in our group confronted the Frenchie about it and they said that it was beer that they got from a friend at another table. Silly Frenchie, they don’t serve beer in a champagne glass! I was stupefied that a table with a $300 bottle of champagne would steal a glass of my $4 champagne. That is bad karma that is going to follow him all throughout 2011.
On the 1st, on our way back to Natitingou, we stopped at the waterfalls and went swimming. Craig and I were both coming down with the flu by this time, but I wasn’t going to allow that to stop me from swimming in the cold waterfall runoff water. It was so beautiful. It was also so cold that it was hard to breathe. I’m sure for you guys back home, it wouldn’t be that bad, but to us, who are use to 100 degrees with 100% humidity, it was cold! We got back to Natty and in failing to buy our bus tickets because they were on repos, we found a guide that was friends with our guide who just happened to pull up next to our car and say hello, who was headed to Grand Popo the next day and could take us to Bohicon for the same price as the bus. We jumped at the opportunity. It meant comfy seats, AC, door to door pick up and drop off, and a quicker ride down. And quicker it was! It shaved off over an hour and a half off of the normal time it takes to get from Natty to Bohicon. By the 2nd though, when we left, I was so sick that I just slept the whole way. I had a slight fever and body aches and a sore throat that kept me up all night. . Craig’s flu soon caught up to mine but didn’t hang on as long. I called Sister Madeline to tell her I had her mosquito nets but I was sick so she would have to come get them and a couple days later, another nun that she works with came all the way to Bohicon to check on us because she heard we were sick. They’re so sweet!
I went into work the next day, the 3rd, in my fragile condition (just as I would if I were in the States) and my supervisor told me to go home and not to come back until the following week when I feel better. It was a nice and welcome rest, especially since I have been bouncing around hotels and workstations for the past month. It has been almost a month since I had been home. I left on December 9th and didn’t come back until the 2nd of January. Our mama around the corner that sells us stuff thought I called it quits and went back to the States for good. My supervisor was ecstatic to see me. And our neighbors held us hostage to catch up when I went by their house to ask them to help us kill the mouse that Craig had trapped in our bathroom. It is good to be home! I am only going to leave one time in January, and that is for a Camp GLOW meeting that I really do need to attend at the end of the month, around the same time that Craig has to leave for training. Other than that, I am staying put for as long as Peace Corps will allow me to.
| the family of elephants right before they charged our car |
| the lioness 40 feet from our car |
| a baboon |
| Safari sunset |
| the whole safari gang on the roof of the car with the guide and the driver |
| the waterfalls |
29 December 2010
Christmas/New Year's
Christmas was great. We went to Grand-Popo with a few friends and hung out on the beach for a few days, soaking up the sun. Just like at home! We had a great time and had pizza and red wine for Christmas dinner.
On the 26th, we went back to Cotonou for the night and made the long haul (11 hours in a bus) up to Tanguieta to visit some friends and check out some things for work. We are in Natitingou right now and early tomorrow morning (5:30am) we begin our 3-day safari to end the year on a high! We're excited to see some lions and elephants.
Stay tuned for pictures and we will see you next year!
Cheers!
21 December 2010
IST Adventures
Peace Corps really took care of us this week! It was like a mini vacation (until the end when we were tired of having a full schedule again). When we first got into country, we stayed at Codiam, which is probably one of the worst hotels in Benin, in my opinion. The hotel that they put us in was at a place called “Songhai” in Porto-Novo, which is an eco-conservation place where they do all kinds of environment things and it’s really pretty. Our hotel room was great! It was roomy with tile floor, AC (although ours didn’t work), a TV that showed CNN in English (what is going on in the world?!?!), a flushing toilet, a ceiling fan, shower with good pressure, toilet paper, soap, and the best part…a weak, but free wifi connection. Our breakfasts and lunches were provided to us. Breakfasts usually included omelet sandwiches and coffee or tea. Our lunches started with an appetizer salad, then a plate of massive proportions! Usually chicken or fish with some sort of starch like rice or couscous, a mélange of vegetables in a sauce, and sometimes fries, followed by dessert of usually yogurt, fruit, or a crepe. We got a snack before lunch and after lunch, which was cookies with a soda, soy milk, or some sort of freshly squeezed juice in a bottle. My favorite was the mango juice. I only ate dinner twice the whole 9 days of training because they fed us so well! It was great! Craig is definitely going to gain some of his lost weight back when he goes to his IST.
Since Soghai is such an environment-friendly place, there are a lot of bugs buzzing around and something bit me on my butt 4 times on one cheek! The more I scratched the bites, the bigger and harder they got until finally they looked and felt like golf balls under my skin. I decided that enough was enough and on Thursday, I called the doc in Cotonou and he had one of the Peace Corps chauffeurs take me to Cotonou for a consultation. There are two doctors on staff here in Peace Corps Benin and my normal doctor, Dr. Lomo (a wonderful woman from Ghana), was out giving flu vaccinations or something, so I saw the male doctor, Dr. Ruffin (also great). Since he was a male, and the bites were on my butt, the medical secretary had to also come into the room while he examined me. This is where I would claim that you have to have no shame to be a Peace Corps Volunteer! I felt like Ross from Friends (with his mole on his butt) having all these people crowded around me looking at my butt. He didn’t know what it was that bit me, but he seemed convinced that it wasn’t deadly nor flesh-eating; just an allergic reaction of some sort. Phew! He gave me some cream and sent me back to Porto-Novo with the instructions of coming back to Cotonou after IST until the bites cleared up.
Every night after training, we all hung out together. One night, while we were on the roof (it was cool up there) watching a movie, my dear friend Michelle wanted someone to play with her, so we all started playing “kick the can” which is a mix of tag and hide-in-go-seek. It was pretty fun and a good form of exercise. My knee had started bothering me during that game though. It has been bothering me off and on since I started training for the marathon and sometimes it would be incredibly painful and other times it would be fine. The next night, while we were dancing on the roof, I heard a little “pop” come from my knee. It started bothering me more after that. It wasn’t extremely painful or anything, so I figured it would go away. The next day, Saturday (the last day of training), it hurt a LOT. Since I was going to Cotonou that day, I’d have the doctor check it out on Monday. Once we got to Cotonou, we all went swimming at the Ambassador’s house (he lets us swim there every Saturday) and my knee was bothering me enough to where I couldn’t do my favorite underwater frog-swim.
On Monday, I was supposed to take the PC shuttle up to Bohicon (a free ride) but since the doc wanted me to stay there until my bites cleared up and my knee was bothering me anyway, I didn’t take it. By Monday, Dr. Lomo was back and she looked at my bites and my knee. I explained to her what was going on and she said that a surgeon was coming for someone else and he would look at my knee. This morning, he looked at my knee and thinks that my problem has something to do with my meniscus and wanted me to get it x-rayed, which I did and it showed nothing (like we thought would happen, since you can't see the meniscus on an x-ray). So now that THAT is out of the way, the next step is an MRI, but the MRI that they do here is "invasive" and I am waiting on the doc to ask Washington what to do with me. It's possible that they'll do the invasive procedure anyway, send me somewhere near-by that uses a more modern technique (like South Africa or London), or send me to DC to get it done. Hopefully it’s nothing serious and doesn’t impede my running and training for the marathon. I haven’t run in like 2 or 3 weeks now because of these knee issues and I’m getting antsy. My knee doesn't hurt most of the time, it just comes in spurts of pain, so I can't imagine that it would be serious enough for surgery or anything like that. Anyone who has been through this before have any ideas? Since I’m down here, Craig is taking the PC shuttle down on Thursday and on Friday morning we’re headed to Grand Popo for Christmas. That’s the plan anyway. I’ll keep you all posted and will have pictures posted soon.
I miss you all and hope that everyone has a wonderful Christmas! And thank you, Brian, for the care package!
14 December 2010
Manchester United 1 - 0 Arsenal
For the first time in months, I’ve been able to watch an entire EPL game, and tonight didn’t disappoint. I finally found out where I could watch a game here in Bohicon, and there just happens to be a place down the street from the Grand Mosque that shows the games and it only costs 200 cfa to get a seat on the bench. I sat 7 rows back in the room, which was more like a lean-to, built from mud brick with an aluminum sheeting roof. The screen wasn’t huge, and sometimes I lost track of the ball because I was constantly straining to see the TV. There were lots of Arsenal supporters and a few United supporters in the room. All around me people were talking smack to each other and causing a ruckus. It was an amazing atmosphere to watch a game in. The only thing I was missing was a few pints, and maybe mon jumeau to fight with. In true yovo fashion, I got plenty of stares and everyone wanted to know which team I was rooting for. The Mighty Reds, of course! Comme normal here, I was in the minority. What follows is my analysis of the match and a look forward to Sunday’s contest:Rooney is not yet on form. Surprisingly, he was most effective when sitting on the last defender’s shoulder and barging through Arsenal’s defense, rather than dropping back into space to play it to the wingers Park and Nani and then moving forward. Speaking of Nani, he ran wild tonight like he did in last season’s final encounter between the two sides and, with the help of an unfortunate deflection, served Park for the winner. As far as Park was concerned, this was a normal game for him. He worked hard, sprinted box-to-box for the full 90+ minutes, and wasn’t terribly effective save for the goal (how far did he run to get to that spot?), which he has a knack for in the important games. The goal was a bit fortunate at best; in fact, it was a classic “Craigy goal”: the result of a lot of hard work and a little bit of luck. Rooney ultimately created the space in the middle for Park to run into while Nani held up play for long enough for Park to get inside the 18. United looked very dangerous on the counter-attacks through Evra and Rafael, who played better offensively than defensively tonight. Back to Rooney, I thought that he would have been more effective. He generally seems to do well against Arsenal, and anyone could tell that he isn’t yet in form. I can’t help but wonder if Chicharito would have been more effective? His penalty was nothing less than embarrassing, trying to do a Ruud van Nistelrooy-versus-Arsenal circa 2003 (when he smacked the ball so hard against the crossbar with his penalty that it nearly flew to midfield). What was he thinking? “I make £200,000 per week now, gotta put a hole in the net every time?” If it weren’t for a good save later on, his cheeky little chip would have just about redeemed him.
Arsenal, for their part, were a bit awkward and seemed to quickly run out of ideas. Nasri has been in brilliant form lately, bagging a double in their last match, but he wasn’t able to quite get on track tonight. He started on the right, but when Rafael exposed his flank while launching counter-attacks, Nasri switched over to the left, which I thought was a good move, as Evra is less prone to making mistakes than is Rafael. Arsenal had a lot of trouble getting service to Chamakh. After a frustrating opening 25 minutes or so, he started dropping far back into the defensive half to get the ball (notice where he was on the pitch when he fouled Nani when he got his yellow card). The introduction of Fabregas and Van Persie was a positive move, especially since Rosicky and Wilshire had all but disappeared from the game and Van Persie could fill that hole up top that Chamakh left when he dropped deep to receive the ball. Arsenal were ultimately let down by their wingers, who couldn’t service a decent ball in, and their central midfielders, who often left Chamakh to attack the wingers’ crosses by himself. Their introduction maybe should have been made at half-time. Arsenal came out strong in the second half but Rosicky and Wilshire were so far out of the game by then that Chamakh was still left attacking the United goal basically by himself with wide support and service from Nasri and Arshavin.
Overall, United had more quality chances and did better tactically to counter-attack versus Arsenal’s possession game, though possession seemed to be fairly even. It was always going to be a tight game and it had to come down to who could better capitalize on the other’s mistakes. Nani by far wins Man of the Match in my eyes.
Definitely worth my 200 cfa. Now on to Stamford Bridge on Sunday which will be just as tricky, since Chelsea have not won in over a month and are bound to break out of their slump. Let’s hope they wait at least another week before then. (Note: Since this entire continent supports Chelsea, I will be lacking fellow Reds to cheer with.) Look for Fergie to pack the center of the midfield against the Blues, who should see Lampard back in the starting line-up. It’s too bad that Ballack has moved on, as he and Evra had some great bouts of handbags the past few seasons. Speaking of Evra, come Sunday, someone restrain the groundskeepers!
Cheers!
08 December 2010
Minibuses, Bats, and Collines--Oh My!
P.S. A huge thanks to Noelle and Mama/Papa Wirick for the care packages! You guys are awesome!
| Carlos, Cara, Satin, and Andrea |
| Craig and I with the kids in the start village |
| All of us in front of the palm tree with 7 trunks |
| the start of the trail |
| at the top of the first peak |
| This bat pretended to be dead and when Craig threw him off the roof with the dust pan, he flew away! |
06 December 2010
World AIDS Day
| My fearless leader, Sakina, with a box of donated condoms on her head |
| The class with all the older kids |
| Doing the rapid testing |
| Ready to give out condoms! |